Frogs friggin frogs turn the fricking frogs GAY!
Do you feel like a hero yet?
If the house burns down because of that your insurer will likely be difficult about it. You should also check the policy of your insurer, perhaps the cause of the fire is irrelevant.
As for fire safety. I always put my electronics in non flammable environments and make sure that everything is fused with either a current or thermal fuse.
Anything with high current consumption goes inside a metal box so that even if it does catch fire it can’t take anything with it. 3D printed enclosures are fine if you mount those inside a metal bucket for example.
I started playing because of the physics.
Fookin prawns!
Sekiro. I immediately started ng+ after finishing it. It’s a great game.
Slaanesh.
Memes from the oldest of ages…
Rise up to the top of the pages!
You see the results of indie devs that are successful but you don’t see the ones that failed.
Where is Odin, guiding axes spears and swords?
Sekiro on the steam deck. It’s difficult since I never bother with parrying in action games but it’s quite fun.
I use a mushroom stamp as biometric login.
Hooray
Amon Amarth - Cry of the black birds
Thanks. Haha no I fully intend to grow vegetables. I don’t even like weed. The last time I smoked it eas 20 years ago, it gave me a panic attack and I never touched it since.
For my use case fidelity is no problem at all. My spot size is minimally about 0.1mm and I’ve increased it to 0.5mm to increase speed.
For photosensitive dry film you don’t need much power so you don’t need max focus. In fact you’re likely to burn through the film with the smallest spot size.
Toner transfer has been messy and unpredictable for me. Also alignment with double-sided PCBs is more difficult this way.
That is a good point. I was under the impression that solder mask is mostly for safety and convenience when soldering so it only flows where you want it to.
Creating a mask that works for solder mask as etch resist does require some tweaking with the SVG files. I’ll give it a try for a few small boards to see how well it really works.
Why is that? I understand there is a tiny layer of exposed copper on the side of the traces but copper tends to form a protective layer of oxide.
Tooting my own horn. I have something to add. With the UV “Mechanic” solder mask that gets sold on Chinese webshops pre-heating the solder mask makes a HUGE difference. Apparently it contains some volatile components that interfere with the curing process.
Heating it to about 80-ish C for a few minutes and optionally letting it cool down causes the laser to almost instantly cure the mask. Any non-exposed mask will be easily washed off with some IPA.
Hmm allright. The power saving isn’t that significant so perhaps I should find a better way for it.