After a few hickups I finished building my MK4 kit and Tukkari enclosure. The first few prints have been fantastic.

My MK4 kit had a couple bad bearings, so I replaced all the bearings and rods on the X and Y axes with MISUMI equivalents. I noticed that they have a fair bit less slop in the movement and are overall quieter.

I also made a custom G10+steel print sheet, and it’s working exceptionally well with PETG. It sticks strongly while hot, and doesn’t release until the bed drops below about 40 deg C at which point parts pop off easily. It leaves a super gloss surface on the first layer as well. If anyone is interested in building one, here are the parts I used:

(253.8x241mm steel sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832760691866.html

(white 250x240x1mm g10 sheet) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801004367032.html

I bonded them together with 3M 200MP double-stick tape (which is thin, strong, and heat-resistant) and filed notches in the g10 to match the sheet. I didn’t abrade the G10, PETG sticks perfectly while glossy. I was very careful about cleaning it with iso. alcohol before printing, and I wipe it again every print or two.

The filament dryer is a Sunlu S1 Plus, which has a built-in fan to circulate air for better drying. I printed this guide and used a PC4-M10 fitting and 4mm OD teflon tube with it to reduce friction into the enclosure:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5234489

I’m quite happy with the setup. It is a little noisier in the enclosure than just on the table due to the melamine particle board panel vibrating while suspended on its plastic feet. I’ll set it on foam and/or a paver eventually to improve this.

  • UserNotFound@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Is it safe to put dryer with filament on top of the box? I have Tukkari for my Mini and I haven’t try that yet

    • poofy_cat@lemm.eeOP
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      1 year ago

      Tukkari support told me directly to do this. It barely gets warm under the dryer, so there’s no real risk of it damaging the plexiglass.